Now Official

I’m assuming that everyone reading this has, probably more than once, had the experience of getting something done at the DMV. Keep that DMV encounter in mind as you keep reading—you may soon appreciate it a little more!

Today I got to experience the Ministry of Transportation—DMV Cambodian style. Before today my most exciting DMV story involved trying to find parking, walking through some sidewalk dice games, and people-watching at the Denver Five-Points DMV office. The Phnom Penh MOT may be giving Denver a run for its money.

Although I bought my motorcycle in November, I have until now been driving it around sans license plate. And while traffic laws here are a little more open to interpretation and a lot less often enforced, these laws do exist—one law being that vehicles should in fact have license plates. I have been pulled over by the police twice for not having one, and each time had to call a Khmer friend on the phone to help be bargain the officers down from the extortionary fine originally quoted to me ($10-15) to a more reasonable price ($1-3). I could easily have been pulled over more often, but a few facts about Cambodian law enforcement worked in my favor. One, police officers pull people over who are driving towards them, rather than following you and having you stop. So they are facing you as you drive by, and do not see the rear end of your moto—with or without license plate—until you are already past them, and it is too late to be pulled over. Two, Cambodian officers are nine times out of ten on foot. Their preferred method of catching traffic offenders is to stage a stakeout of five or six policemen, who wait on the far side of a traffic light. When the light turns green, the traffic begins to flow through the intersection, and the officers jump into position, stretching themselves out in a line across the lanes of oncoming traffic. They act as a human net to catch whichever motos are not able to slip through the gaps. In theory, there may be a law about needing to pull over when an officer asks you to do so, but—there is no penalty or police pursuit if you do not. Thus—unless an officer is particularly daring and steps directly in front of your moving bike, this is not the most effective means of asking people to stop.

So—while it would have been good to get a license plate before now, it was not a big problem that I did not. The first step in getting one requires establishing proof of residence in the city. This is done by getting letters from your village (neighborhood) leader and your district leader that state you do in fact live in those places (although how they determine if you actually live where you say you do, I don’t know—luckily, this step was taken care of for me by my Khmer friend/coworker/roommate). Palms must be greased at each step, although as with the police, there is room for bargaining.

Once you have the official letters, you can take them along with your moto ownership papers to the Ministry of Transporation, like I did this morning. This is where the steps start to get a little fuzzy. Again, luckily, I was accompanied by my Khmer friend, who took care of things, and even though I was there, I’m not entirely sure what all happened or why. I do know we opted for the “fast” version of getting a license plate, meaning we paid more money so we could actually receive the license plate today, and not a few months from now. I also know that the place was a busy beehive of activity, with various desks and windows and lines and people with bullhorns. The day proceeded something like this: we waited at one desk, I wrote my phone number and put my thumb print on some forms, I got told to wait there while my friend and the staff person left for awhile, they came back, they talked, I stood around, we left so my friend could have noodle soup for breakfast, we waited in a seating area in the middle of all the mobs and lines while watching karaoke on tv, went back to wait at the original desk, had my picture taken, paid, made the unusual request for a receipt, got the license plate, waded back outside to get my bike from the parking area, wheeled it back across the street and into the building, waited for my friend to return to the original desk to see if she could exchange my plate for one with "a bigger number," turned in backwards to get in line with a hundred other motos, finagled our way to the front of the crowd to have the plate pneumatically attached to the bike—this last under a sign that says “plates attached for free”, where we paid the men who performed this service. Also during this process, we were hot and sweaty as a happy little bonus….:) Then we went back to work.
So, hopefully no more getting pulled over for me! Here’s a picture of the “line” for getting the license plate screwed onto my moto:

The Language Saga Continues....

So...ongoing language study. I'm still doing it. And it still wears me out. Lately I've been learning grammar, and trying to figure out the ins and outs of Khmer sentence structure. In a lot of ways the language is very simple. For instance, there are no verb forms. In English, we change the verb "to cook" depending on subject and tense: I cook, I cooked, I am cooking, he cooks, they will cook, etc. In Khmer, the word "to cook" is exactly the same in all of those instances. Nor does it change, like in French or Spanish, based on gender. There is a slight variation for putting a verb into past or future tense. To do so, you simply add the "past word" or the "future word"--like saying "I DID cook" or "I WILL cook." Past and future tense can be expressed in other ways as well, but the word "cook" itself does not change at all--simple.



Until things start to get a little more complex. Sentence word order in Khmer can be similar to English, or it can be very different. There are also differences in how many ideas one word encapsulates. For instance, there are some things in English that we express with only one word; some of these concepts are expressed with more than one word in Khmer. Take the word "know". We use this word in English to express a variety of meanings. In Khmer, however, there are different words depending on what it is you are talking about knowing: "know a fact/information," "know a person/word/location," or "know how to do something." Or take the English word "carry." You will need different Khmer words to say carry on your back, carry slung over your shoulders, carry on the back of an animal, carry on your head, carry in your arms, carry a light object in your hands, or carry a heavy object in your hands. This works the other way too--sometimes English has multiple words where Khmer has only one. In Khmer, "ree-un" covers the concepts of both "study" and "learn."



And then there's the Khmer word "owie." Depending on how it's used, "owie" can be translated into English as: to, from, give, cause, for, let, tell, ask, and probably something else. It can also be added to a phrase to mean "I promise I will do this." Or in some cases, it can be added to an adjective to turn it into an adverb (from "quick" to "quickly"). This is the grammar that I mentioned I have been trying to learn. Needless to say, it is a little confusing! I'm still working on exactly when and where to insert an "owie" into my sentences.

A Few New Relationships

While I've been busy learning Khmer, I've also been in the process of building new relationships here in Cambodia. This, of course, is important on a number of levels: relationships are a great way to practice language and learn about culture, they are good for my sanity, they are the means through which I will hopefully be able to impact people's lives (and have mine impacted in return), and so on. Navigating how to build relationships in a new culture can be a little interesting, but it is also enjoyable. At some point down the road I'll maybe have some deep insights into how Cambodian's interact with friends, family, coworkers, shopkeepers, strangers, and everyone else--but today my head is tired from my language lesson. So this post will be a little lacking in the deep insights department.

Instead, here are a few pictures. This is me and a few of the Phnom Penh FH staff at one of the local night markets, where you can get a meal for fifty cents or a dollar--soups, fried noodles, creamy coconut drinks, fried sweet breads. Eat at the market, where there is a communal pot of tea and set of cups on the table, or have your food put into plastic bags and take it home. Your food will be made to order, quickly and piping hot. Grab some utensils from the bin on the table, give them a wipe with the kleenex or toilet paper provided for this purpose, add soy/chili/fish sauce as you like, and enjoy! Note on the pictures--I promise these friends were enjoying themselves; smiling is just not necessary in Cambodian picture taking! In the photo on the left, from left to right: Sothea, general office administrator; Sarith, daytime office guard; and Ouk, office "cleaner."

A few other types of relationships--lately the froggy friends have been coming out in full force. I usually disturb a few of them in the evenings when I'm watering the plants around my house. I probably blinded this poor guy who found himself perched on the armrest of a chair with a flashing camera in his face. Most of the frogs I see (and hear!) are small, two or three inches long. Kind of fun to have them around. Bigger frogs than this make a good food source--grilled frog legs are readily available in the markets next to various other meat-type products (no, I haven't tried any). According to my tutor, toad legs are also quite tasty, but not very appetizing due to their bumpy skin. And last picture--recognize these guys??? They are always around but there seems to be less of them some weeks and plenty of them other weeks. Either way, mosquito repellent has become a part of my daily morning routine!